Category Archives: Life and style

40 Maltby Street, London SE1 – restaurant review

‘The food that issues from the postage-stamp-sized kitchen is all pretty much faultless: not a beat is missed’

Of all the dishes we have at 40 Maltby Street, it’s the most unprepossessing that makes us sit up, blinking and gasping, “Wow, this is really, really good.” Pig’s head broth with cabbage dumplings: it doesn’t exactly bark “Sexxxxy!” in the way that maybe Dexter shortribs with mustard, or roast partridge with spinach, bacon and jerusalem artichoke tart might.

Under normal circumstances, it’s not a dish I’d ever order, either. Too ascetic for the sybaritic, greedy likes of me. But on a Friday lunchtime, there are only four dishes that aren’t charcuterie (pleasingly stiff and fatty Basque sausage studded with peppercorns, served with first-class sourdough baguette) or a selection of well-kept cheeses. So, in a spirit of what-the-hell, we order the lot. I expected that broth to be something along the lines of Japanese tonkotsu, gummy and milky with collagen from long-simmered bones. Instead, it’s a shimmering, limpid bouillon with an aroma of farmyard pork and a depth of flavour that makes you sip and swill it like a vintage wine. The cabbage rolls – crinkly savoy that retains its bite – contain a stuffing studded with fat chunks of floury chestnut, perhaps the ferrous suggestion of offal: a mouthful of astonishing length.

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Related posts:

  1. 40 Maltby Street, London SE1 – restaurant review
  2. Spring, London WC2 – restaurant review
  3. Spread the love: Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipes for less fashionable vegetables
Posted in Europe, Food & drink, Life and style, London, Restaurants, Top News, Travel, United Kingdom, World news | Comments Off

40 Maltby Street, London SE1 – restaurant review

‘The food that issues from the postage-stamp-sized kitchen is all pretty much faultless: not a beat is missed’

Of all the dishes we have at 40 Maltby Street, it’s the most unprepossessing that makes us sit up, blinking and gasping, “Wow, this is really, really good.” Pig’s head broth with cabbage dumplings: it doesn’t exactly bark “Sexxxxy!” in the way that maybe Dexter shortribs with mustard, or roast partridge with spinach, bacon and jerusalem artichoke tart might.

Under normal circumstances, it’s not a dish I’d ever order, either. Too ascetic for the sybaritic, greedy likes of me. But on a Friday lunchtime, there are only four dishes that aren’t charcuterie (pleasingly stiff and fatty Basque sausage studded with peppercorns, served with first-class sourdough baguette) or a selection of well-kept cheeses. So, in a spirit of what-the-hell, we order the lot. I expected that broth to be something along the lines of Japanese tonkotsu, gummy and milky with collagen from long-simmered bones. Instead, it’s a shimmering, limpid bouillon with an aroma of farmyard pork and a depth of flavour that makes you sip and swill it like a vintage wine. The cabbage rolls – crinkly savoy that retains its bite – contain a stuffing studded with fat chunks of floury chestnut, perhaps the ferrous suggestion of offal: a mouthful of astonishing length.

Continue reading…

Continue reading

Related posts:

  1. 40 Maltby Street, London SE1 – restaurant review
  2. Spring, London WC2 – restaurant review
  3. Spread the love: Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipes for less fashionable vegetables
Posted in Europe, Food & drink, Life and style, London, Restaurants, Top News, Travel, United Kingdom, World news | Comments Off

Finland legalises gay marriage

Finland becomes 12th European nation to give same-sex unions the same status as heterosexual marriages Continue reading…
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Posted in Europe, Finland, Gay marriage, LGBT rights, Life and style, Marriage, Sexuality, Society, Top News, World news | Comments Off

Finland legalises gay marriage

Finland becomes 12th European nation to give same-sex unions the same status as heterosexual marriages Continue reading…
Continue reading

Related posts:

  1. Finland legalises gay marriage
  2. South Africa: Shadow Dancing With Debt – the Credit Ratings Agencies Must Be Reformed
  3. Judge overturns Montana same-sex marriage ban
Posted in Europe, Finland, Gay marriage, LGBT rights, Life and style, Marriage, Sexuality, Society, Top News, World news | Comments Off

How to make apple and cinnamon porridge – recipe

Liven up winter breakfasts with the addition of fruit, sugar and spice – it might not suit porridge purists, but everyone else will love it

Oh dear, the kids are already fed up with porridge in the morning and it’s still only November. Granted, it is the grownups and the toddler in our household who most enjoy eating porridge, but the older two will eat it if pressed. That is, until roundabout now in my porridge serving season!

Undeterred, with half-eaten bowls in front of them and a hurried piece of toast as we exit for school, my next batch of porridge would have to up the ante if I planned on stretching it throughout the winter. A change is as good as a rest and all that.

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Dirty chicken scandal: campylobacter found in eight out of 10 UK birds

Food watchdog warns that Asda has worst rate of contamination but all other supermarket chains failing to meet national targetsFood poisoning scandal: how chicken spreads campylobacter Continue reading…
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Do the Instagram stars show we’re now all living in scripted reality?

These polished amateur marketers present something aspirational, but it’s not really their life. And it won’t be yours

On my shelves I have stacks of photo albums lined up in chronological order. They chart my teenage years, and the many valiant attempts to use home hair dye kits. The albums are full of blurry and unmanaged moments – a stranger grinning in the corner, a flash gone awry. They show shiny faces, terrible poses and awkward facial expressions.

The albums tail off around the time I got a phone with a camera. We were seduced by the novel concept of taking a photo, deeming it unflattering and instantly trying again. We got tools to add effects, or crop out that stranger in the corner. We presented a better version of ourselves, and our albums stopped taking up space in our homes. They went online – we Facebooked our memories so that all our friends could appreciate them too.

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Posted in Celebrity, Consumer affairs, Digital media, Instagram, Life and style, Media, Online shopping, Social media, Technology, World news | Comments Off

Come on, Britain – it’s the 21st century. Stop this obsession with social class

I have lived here for 25 years, but still I’m baffled by this fixation with background, schools and cutlery

The whole “fiddling while Rome burns” cliche was getting a bit old – almost 2,000 years old, to be precise – so we should all be grateful for BBC2’s bafflingly pointless documentary series about Tatler magazine, Posh People: Inside Tatler, for updating the analogy. So please readjust your inner literary device, Britain: for “fiddling while Rome burns”, please substitute with “worrying about which piece of cutlery to use for eating a pear while life passes by”.

This was one of the concerns raised by a member of Tatler’s pink-cheeked staff, and it was – thankfully – quickly resolved by a copy of Debrett’s, with which each Tatlerite is equipped upon being hired. No, you have not slipped through a time-space continuum, this is the 21st century.

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Black Friday gun purchases test background check system to limit

Nothing says Thanksgiving like a new gun, apparently, and the FBI’s dedicated team is braced for a repeat of last year’s surge to 145,000 calls in one day

Black Friday isn’t just when shoppers rush to stores for holiday sales. It’s also one of the busiest days of the year for gun purchases.

In the US, there are nine guns for every 10 people. Someone is killed with a firearm every 16 minutes. And every minute, gun shops make about 40 new requests for criminal background checks on people wanting weapons.

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‘I feel like a wild animal’: trail running in Dartmoor

Fancy straying away from the pavement? Why not head to Dartmoor, where rain is plentiful but tarmac scarce

If you plan to go running in Dartmoor, you can’t be too precious about the weather. All night, the rain has been hammering down on the roof of our holiday cottage near the village of Brentor on the western edge of the moor. Every time I wake up, I think about my run the next morning. Will the hills be washed away?

The next morning, while my family – fledgling runners at best – tuck into pancakes and toast, swanning around barefoot on the heated stone floor, I set off across the hill that rises up outside the front gate.

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